How to install PVC beadboard
Cutting
- PVC Beadboard can be cut using standard woodworking tools.
- Conventional carbide tipped blades designed for cutting wood are recommended.
- Avoid using fine tooth metal-cutting blades.
Fastening
- PVC Beadboard can be hand or power nailed the same as wood. In cold temperatures below 40°F, pre drilling may be required to prevent splitting or cracking of the tongue.
- For runs in excess of eighteen (18) feet face nailing or separating each run of beadboard with a “T” or “H” mullion is preferred. A “T” or “H” mullion creates an excellent break between the runs of beadboard while providing a pocket that allows for any expansion or contraction.
- A simple method of creating a “T” to separate long runs of beadboard is to take a piece of trimboard at least 5/8” thick at a minimum width of 2” and cut a 1/2” deep by 1/2” wide groove down both sides of the board.
- When nailing, nails should be at least 11/2” long so that each fastener penetrates the substrate a minimum of one (1”) inch.
- PVC beadboard should be nailed a maximum of 12” on center along its length with fasteners at least 2” or less from the end of each board.
Installation
Since PVC beadboard is a thermoplastic material it will expand and contract along its length by as much as 3/16” in 18’. In an effort to mechanically control this movement the following guidelines should be followed:
- To prevent buckling or binding, leave a minimum of ¼” to ½” gap between the edge of the beadboard and any solid substrate. Use a piece of trim or moulding to cover this gap.
- For runs longer than 18’, cut a bevel or shiplap joint into the end of the board, leave a 1/8” gap when installing on a day where temperatures range from 35°F to 45°F.
- For runs in excess of eighteen (18) feet face nailing is recommended. Face nailing allows you to reduce the nail spacing across the width of the beadboard, thus restricting expansion and contraction.
- Where possible orient the beadboard in the direction that uses the shortest board length possible. The shorter the board length the less expansion and contraction it will display.
Painting
- Like all PVC products nominal 4” and 6” beadboards can be painted but do not require painting for protection.
- A 100% acrylic latex or 100% acrylic latex with a urethane additive should be used to achieve superior coating durability and flexibility.
- Only light to medium colored paints with a light reflective value of 55 units or greater should be used over PVC products. Consult your local paint representative or prefinisher for available heat reflective paints.
- Be sure these paints have an equivalent LRV of 55 units or greater. Darker acrylic latex colors absorb heat and not only increases expansion and contraction but can cause the temperature to reach or exceed the heat distortion temperature of cellular PVC permanently distorting the product.
- Always follow the paint manufacturer’s application instructions. Be sure to read and follow the instructions and warnings on the label.
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